Milan Fashion Week closed yesterday an edition marked by changes in the creative leadership of the big brands but also by a general commitment to review and defend the tradition of Italian tailoring. On the catwalk there are only remnants of that strident and striking luxury that arrived after the pandemic to try to revive an industry that today, despite inflation, is in one of its best moments, with a growth forecast of eight percent. percent in sales to reach 380,000 million euros in 2023.
It’s time to stop, consume consciously in the sector and look for high-quality garments that function as timeless and versatile treasures in the most sophisticated closets. It is the reign of so-called silent luxury, which sneaks into collections like Max Mara’s. An example of eternal elegance, the brand led by Ian Griffiths seeks to renew the suit through color and fabrics such as denim. A color palette composed of apple green, acid lilac and Klein blue introduces a line that seeks to pay a small tribute to the eternally versatile: “Look, it’s all Texan,” whispered one of the guests. The favorite fabric of streetstyle is presented in a ready-to-wear style through pencil skirts, polished dresses, shirts with extreme collars and tailored jackets. crop . There are already several seasons, and brands, that predict a new language of luxury, more earthly and closer to the streets, but above all to the versatility that the woman of our times needs.
The debuts of Sabato De Sarno, Peter Hawkings and the goodbye of Walter Chiapponi marked the catwalk
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, the most popular creative duo in the industry today – their clothes and accessories top the most desired lists – also offered a show dedicated to classic but updated tailoring. The Prada line with rock notes that contrast with romantic details, such as the use of tulle and shiny appliqués, recovers fringe for the next season to talk about fluidity and movement. She is the undisputed protagonist of the collection and is worn in all types of garments and formats: from corseted belts, in constant movement with the model’s step, to shirts, skirts and dresses. Like a large metal box full of vents, the Prada Foundation adopted an industrial, hard and rigid air to present a collection that explores the opposite. Following in the wake of the men’s collection presented in Milan last June, the Italian house reflects on the fluidity of beauty and silhouette not only through clothing but through a performance that has become the image of the week . A viscous substance began to descend from the ceiling with the step of the first model and only stopped gushing with the walk of the last, as a conceptual exercise, to talk about beauty from different prisms.
Expectation. The word perfectly summarizes a fashion day in which the industry has carefully observed the Italian city to witness the first steps of creatives such as Sabato De Sarno or Peter Hawkings. The first proposes a more earthly and commercial Gucci and the second, who curiously was also at Gucci and is now making his debut for Tom Ford, envisions for the next season a style that evokes the 2000s, to the sound of Madonna and bathed in gold.
But beyond the welcomes there have also been the occasional goodbye. Walter Chiapponi, at the head of the Italian luxury Tod’s men’s and women’s line since 2019, said goodbye to the brand with a declaration of love, once again, for Milanese craftsmanship and the history of Tod’s. Surrounded by marble sculptures and decorations used in the Teatro alla Scala, Chiapponi proposes a contemporary style based on marked silhouettes. Leather invades fitted shirts and coats but the knit is also maintained and fits the figure in polished, off-the-shoulder dresses with sleeves.
A week full of news in which, however, the brands look to the past to use the timeless art of clothing.